October 2010 - Northern Hospitality

October 14, 2010

Three weeks in France have gone by pretty fast. Whaddya know - there's lots to do in this somewhat unknown Northern corner of Frogland :D I'm not sure I can possibly capture, express or process everything that's happened/is happening but I can try.

First of all, Lille is a great city to live, for anyone. It's a very special place, with a unique vibe that combines Northern hospitality, Flemish influence, typical "Frenchness," urban life and small-town charm. I think people here use their friendliness and vibrant culture to combat the pervasive gray skies and chilliness. It certainly works, because so far I don't feel particularly melancholy or lethargic because of the weather, which was my biggest fear. In fact, we've had several gorgeous fall days, with all those oranges and yellows shining through. However, it is getting cold now so good thing I packed my overweight suitcases full of warm winter clothes!

Transport

So far, I've been biking everywhere. The bike is...OK, could use some work, but it definitely works and it's very easy to get around this way. Bikes are very well integrated on the roads. The metro and buses are also very clean, fast and efficient but I've just never felt the need to use them unless I'm traveling with someone without wheels. I love exploring my new city in the open air! I have a lot of company on the road and I've met people involved in the local non-profit bike organization that has open workshops and an occasional Critical Mass - for you non-cyclists, that's a worldwide monthly city ride that sorta blocks traffic but is super fun. I can't say I'm super involved yet, but I also live with other cyclists, so there's stuff around for DIY tune-ups...which brings me to...

Housing

I haven't had my own room in a house for nearly 2 months, but that's about to change. One of the teachers I'm working with didn't findout he was my responsable, or administrative guide, until school started o _ O so he couldn't find me a legit temporary spot. However! I stayed at his place for a night and then I spent a week at his neighbor's apartment - a really lucky find, because these are awesome people who know a former assistant from BU and are just really nice, fun and helpful. They are the bike folks and they also managed to *magically* find me my current apartment! Literally, one of them made a call to a friend who mentioned there was a housemate opening and wham! I visited the place and it's pretty perfect in most ways so I decided to take it with almost no hesitation because it is VERY hard to find an apartment in Lille - lots of students, etc. The slight downsides are: 1) it's sort of under-the-table without the landlord's knowledge so I'm not getting housing financial assistance or signing a lease which makes housing proof slightly less easy 2) it's not super close to my schools so the morning bike rides are a bit long. BUT my housemates are an awesome bunch of 5 French folks, with that familiar age + gender range, food & chore sharing that I had at the coop : ) There's an urban studies student, an environmentalist journalist, a financier of sustainable energy, a gardener and an accountant that takes care of the house account. I've been crashing in the living room, but this weekend I am finally moving upstairs to the open room which is gonna be great. Also, there is a sweet CAT with one blue, one green eye and hopefully he can stay on after his owner peaces out. I like the neighborhood, though it's a bit sketchy at night. Tomorrow I'm going to check out a concert at a squat which I realized is literally a 5-min. walk from my place.

Teaching

I haven't had nearly as much observation of classes as I hoped/expected but I like what I've seen so far. Next week is the last before Toussaint (All Saint's Day vacation) so hopefully I will get to have a fuller schedule then to gear up for actually taking on the kids. I am assistant teaching 6 hours at two middle schools in the same area, 11 - 14/15 year olds. Most of them are a very curious and friendly bunch and I think I will enjoy working with them. The teachers I work with at each school are very good, but I also observed a teacher whose style I really, really disliked and never want to emulate. We discussed this at our assistant orientation and I'm glad that other teachers agree that you must respect the kids or they will hate you and obviously be disruptive. As much as I don't like formal education/hierarchy, I think there are great teachers out there and that really makes or breaks the learning experience. I won't say much more on this until I actually take them on, but I am excited about my work. My colleagues are nice and I hope I will get to know other teachers soon.

General Life

I've been looking into the anarchist/activist scene, movie theaters, media and local/organic food. All of these things are good and plentiful in Lille. With the big hullabaloo about the retirement reform, radical politics is also out in the open. I could be wrong, but I *think* radicalism is much more active and not so underground here. There's a long-established self-managed space here called Centre Culturel Libertaire and they have a full calendar every month which has helped me meet people. I've made it a point to come to events where I don't know a single person and not leave until I've met at least one. This has really challenged me because everyone is French, so I'm pushing myself on both the foreign language & foreign place front. I've found people to be friendly and open, though, and I've enjoyed an interesting range of experiences, from American rockabilly with a French accent, to a smoke-filled basement of noise followed by post-punk followed by moshing to funk hXc, to a typical birthday party with dancing to cheesy dance music (these are different places, of course!) I also picked up some clothes at a clothes exchange - I've noticed that kids seem to be more included in all kinds of get-togethers here, but maybe that's just the people I've met :)

Eating vegetarian/vegan is totally doable here despite its rarity, because there are plenty of markets, organic stores and my housemates are all about that. The CCL also has a "vegan cantine" every 2 weeks which is like Food Not Bombs except more of just a get-together dinner than feeding the needy. Still really fun though! The demonstrations have been pretty intense as you read in the media, definitely nothing like the US. The government is not listening this time, though, them reforms are surely going to pass, I believe. 

So, in general, my experience thus far has been far superior to my semester abroad in Paris. I feel much more comfortable here, yet also constantly challenged and excited for the new things I learn every day. I haven't developed an itinerary for traveling yet, mostly because I feel overwhelmed by all the moving around I've done this year! Part of me is itching to take advantage of Europe and the other part just wants to stay in one place - Lille - for a bit and chill out. I've met a few fellow assistants but not anyone yet that could be a potentially excellent travel companion and I'm sort of not in the mood for going at it alone at the moment.